4. The
more concrete parts of bike fit include saddle height, saddle setback, saddle
tilt and cleat position however the reach to the handlebars and the height
of the handlebars can be more difficult. The fitter needs to take into account
the rider’s lumbar flexibility, abdominal strength and even the riders
perception of comfort. Some cyclists are prepared to sacrifice performance
in order to be more comfortable; some are prepared to sacrifice comfort
in order to gain performance. This process can take some time.
5. What I find works is to
fit the bike so that the position both looks technically correct and so
that it feels correct to the rider but always with some reference to the
position the rider is used to. If there is some correction needed I find
a gradual approach works, small graduated changes that allow the body to
absorb without problems.
6. Position isn’t necessarily
static, it will change as your fitness changes, and as your base grows your
position may need to change. An example would be lowering the height of
the seat as your body fat decreases or lowering the handlebar height as
your lumbar flexibility increases.
7. I don’t use formulas
based on body measurements, the formulas don’t account for individual
differences, for instance how you carry your foot throughout the pedal stroke
will have a large bearing on your effective saddle height. Another example
is that the distance from the saddle to the handlebar isn’t just a
function of your torso length and arm length, it is also a function the
strength and flexibility of your back and neck
8. I do use a goniometer to
measure body angles under pedalling load in combination with observation
of the pedalling action.
9. In conclusion, this experienced
based / rider feedback approach works for both the recreational and the
racing cyclist. Just remember it takes time and some patience to nail your
set-up. Once you get it right it will make more difference to your performance
than any exotic bike. |